Photosynthesis rates were highest in the coppice, but the water use efficiency of the coppice fell in between mature trees (higher WUEi) and seedlings (lower WUEi). The lowest predawn water potential of -4.21 MPa was recorded in seedlings, which was by 0.8 MPa less than in the coppice. During mild to severe drought, coppiced trees had better access to water and assimilated more carbon per unit of leaf area than seedlings and mature trees. Coppicing increased water use and photosynthesis both under drought stress conditions and favorable conditions. We measured seasonal variation of tree water status, photosynthesis, and biometric traits of sessile oak over three growing seasons. We compared mature trees, young coppice and seedlings. Here, we aimed to deepen our mechanistic understanding of the performance of sessile oak (Quercus petraea) in response to drought stress. One such silvicultural system is coppicing, which increases a stand’s drought resistance compared to high forests, but the underlying mechanisms are not well explored. Appropriate forest management may help mitigate these adverse effects. The results offer arguments to assume that the decision to consider that particular investment a good practice is fulfilled.ĭroughts negatively affect tree vitality, growth and mortality in temperate forests. The main findings of the analysis of the economic-efficiency indicators offer a synthetic and relevant image of the fact that the investment has proven to be effective under the analyzed conditions. The internal rate of return was calculated as 22%, whereas the value of the savings-to-investment ratio is 3.6%. The estimated income is RON 505,327.8/year, so at a 5% financial-discount rate and an estimated period of use of 30 years, the net present value is RON 5,612,730.67. The results prove that an investment of RON 1,323,226.29, at the value of 2018, would be paid in 5 years, 0 months, and 15 days. The novelty of the study consists of the proposed cost–benefit methodology adapted to a real-value cost concept for estimating the efficiency of the investment in the hydrographic Fâncel watershed, in the center of Romania, using a set of five indicators. Whatever you use to edge your beds, you’ll find tools and equipment to help in our centre.Estimating the efficiency of the investments that generate public benefits is not an easy task, as there are various methods proposed for evaluating the value of public goods and services. Cut back all stems to within 5-7.5cm from the ground or to the previous year’s stubs. The best time to coppice is in late winter or early spring before the trees come into growth. Beech, hazel, eucalyptus, willow and hornbeam trees can all also be coppiced. Dogwoods (Cornus alba and sanguinea) are coppiced in late winter to produce new colourful stems for the following winter. If you happen to have suitable shrubs in your garden, you can also do your own coppicing.įoxglove trees (Pawlonia), Indian bean trees (Catalpa) and smokebush (Cotinus) are often coppiced to produce bigger foliage. You can buy coppiced stems and poles online from various organisations. Besides providing a sustainable source of wood, it also benefits wildlife by increasing the light levels in woodland areas, thus increasing the range of species that can flourish there. Coppicing is a recognised woodland management technique. Coppicing is the process of cutting established trees down to the base to produce new pliable stems that can be harvested for use. The stems used in wattle weaving come from coppicing woodland. Where to get stems for weaving wattle edging Once the weaving is finished, trim off any ends sticking out and might poke into someone walking past. Weave the stems between the posts, in front of one post and behind the next, with each layer of stems sitting on the opposite side of the post to the layer below it. The posts may feel a bit wobbly at this stage, but they will be held in place once the stems are woven around them. Push the posts into the ground in the trench, spaced around 30-45cm apart. You will also need some reasonably straight and sturdy sections of branch or stem to act as posts.Ĭut the wood you are going to use for your posts into lengths to suit the height of the edging you want to make, taking into account that part of the post will be buried underground.ĭig a shallow trench along the line where you want your edging to run. Hazel and willow are traditionally used, but any long flexible woody stems are fine, as long as they are pliable and don’t snap when bent. You will need a pile of freshly cut stems, around 75cm-1m (2.5-3ft) long. It’s done by weaving thin branches through poles to make panels, and it goes right back to Neolithic times, so it’s a well-tried technique! Use a low wattle fence to define the edge of a bed and make a good wind barrier to protect young seedlings. Wattle fencing has been around for centuries.
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